Hello World Cup!
If you are going to Rio, here are some of my favorite places to eat:
Aconchego Carioca is rickety bar in Rio located at a not so touristy area, but worth the trip. Katia Barbosa, the chef and owner prepares the famous bolinho de feijoada, which is a fritter version of the Feijoada stew. The restaurant also boasts a good selection of beers, including numerous domestic offerings.
Rua Barão de Iguatemi, 379
Praça da Bandeira
Tel: (55 21)2273-1035
Located at a perfect corner of Leblon, Jobi represents the quintessential carioca spirit. For over 50 years this place has been enchanting the city with its impeccably Portuguese cuisine prepared in a tiny little kitchen that nonetheless serves extraordinary food.
Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva, 1,166/ Loja B
Leblanc, Tel: (55 21) 2274-0547
Chico & Alaide
Chico & Alaide serves some of the best Petiscos (Brazilian tapas) and chopp (beer). The owners are as charismatic with their food as with their smile. Take a seat at one of the tables lining the street outside and enjoy some of the best finger food in Rio.
Rua Dias Ferreira 679,
Olympe, from French chef Claude Troisgros a more refined dining option in Rio, perfect for that special evening meal. He focused on the fusion between French cuisine and Brazilian ingredients and the result is just super.
Rua Custodio Serrao 62,
Iraja combines good service, reasonable prices and a modern take on typical Brazilian dishes to create a winning formula. The desserts, in particular the hot chocolat brigadeiro cake, have a fantastic reputation throughout the city.
Rua Conde de Iraja, 109
Zuka fits all the occasions. It is packed day and night. The chef Ludimilla Soeiro is very creative and on top of every dish that comes out of the kitchen.
Rua Dias Ferreira 233 B
If you are wondering why a Spanish tapas bar has made into this Rio list, I will tell you that this is one of the few botequins that have embraced the spirit of Rio combined with Spanish influences as heartedly as Venga.
Rua Dias Ferreira, 113/Loja B
Leblon Tel: (55 21) 2512-9826
Rua Garcia D’Avila 147/Loja B
Ipanema tel (55 21) 2247-0234
Academia da Cachaça
If Caipirinha has a birth restaurant, then Academia da Cachaça is the turf. The fragrance of the national cocktail drips from the glasses as waiters carries dancing trays. You can choose among a wide variety of cachaças, from Magnifica to Seleta to Leblon cachaça.
Rua Conde Bernardote, 26/ Loja G
Leblanc, Tel: (55 21) 2239-1542
Under the leadership of Vera and Bete Afonso, this tiny place in Copacabana has a spot in the carioca’s heart. Pavão Azul specializes in comfort home food, as if you are eating a dish prepared by your carioca grandmother.
Rua Hilário de Gouveia, 71- A
Tel: (55 21) 2236-2381
No matter what time of the day, or night, tables at Bracarense are always occupied. If you look around you’ll see a mix of regulars, beachcombers, straight from the office people, and oil-business-man from all over the world who now call Rio home. A squad of speedy waiters keep the beer flowing while also distributing Bracarense’s signature’s bar delicacies, which are devoured piping hot.
Rua José Linhares , 85-B
Leblanc, Tel: (55 21) 2294-3549
Filet de Ouro
Just as you cannot go to Bahia and not eat Acarajé, you cannot go to Filet de Ouro and not eat Filet Osvaldo Aranha, a simple piece of Filet Mignon topped with golden fried garlic accompanied by rice, potatoes and farofa (toasted manioc flour).
Filet de Ouro
Rua Jardim Botânico, 731
Jardim Botânico Tel (55 21) 2259-2396
Braseiro da Gávea
If one restaurant can represent an entire neighborhood, then that it the case of Braseiro da Gavea, the highlight of this neighborhood: Gávea. It captures the bohemian atmosphere of the place and the flamboyance of the carioca crowd.
Braseiro da Gávea
Praça Santos Dumont, 166
Gávea, Tel (55 21) 2239-7494
It’s certainly impossible not to be swayed by the amount of sausages offered at Rio’s botequins. Enchendo Linguiça, however is the “it” place for sausage lovers. The name translates to stuffing sausage and apparently that is what they do all they long.
Av. Engel Richard, 02-loja A
Grajaú, Tel: (55 21) 2576-5727
Oro, by chef Felipe Bronze, opened in October 2010 and took Rio by storm. Other chefs in Brazil have embarked on a smiliar path, but Oro stands out. It reaches a level of art in cooking, an idealization of ingredient interpretation.
Rua Frei Leandro, 20
Jardim Botanico, Rio de Janeiro
Tel: (55 21) 7864-9622
Pipo opened doors in July of 2013, bringing him back to Rua Dias Ferreira, and offering culinary delights in a looser way, more in sync with the culture and current economy of Rio de Janeiro.
Rua Dias Ferreira, 64
Tel (55 21) 2239-9322
In the kitchen of her Fairfield home in CT, Monica Justen pulls an authentic Barreado from the stove. A large pot of braised meat, the smell is divine and there are kitchen gadgets everywhere.
Barreado is the name of a typical dish from the state of Paraná, in the south of Brazil, where Monica Justen comes from. It consists of meat delicately cooked with bacon, onion and spices at low temperature for about 12 hours in a clay pot that is hermetically sealed with a starch paste of manioc flour. The name of the dish comes from the term barrear a panela, meaning to seal the pot with this manioc paste. The dish is served with manioc flour, banana, oranges, and pepper sauce.
I tasted Barreado on a trip to the south of Brazil a few years ago, more specifically in Morretes, a city that claims paternity of the dish.
It wasn’t until I met Monica through a group of Brazilians, that I had the opportunity to savor this fantastic dish again. I instantly recognized we share a love of cooking and asked her to teach me how to make this typical dish from her region.
Monica prepared two versions of the recipe, one based on beef shank, and another using store bought beef stew, which comes from the London broil. The difference was incredible. In any braise, bone-in meat is key to flavor. In Monica’s tests, the first one (bone-in meat) displayed great depth of character and its tenderness far surpassed the one prepared with beef stew.
Forget already cut, we concluded. All the luscious marrow of the shank is part of the appeal of cooking any type of meat on the bone. For an authentic Barreado, I love how Monica separated the meat from the bone, and the two met again in a later step of the recipe.
The encounter of braised meat with flavored stock was heaven.
“It wasn’t until coming to the US and having to take over most of the cooking job at home, that I decided to learn a little more about this dish”, she tells me while we both enjoy Barreado.
Monica was born and raised in Curitiba, and came to the US four years ago with her husband Marcal Justen, a prominent lawyer in Brazil.
The couple moved to the US in association with a Yale scholar program in New Haven, and chose Fairfield as their home.
It’s not surprising that Monica’s tastes buds, known for her delicious slow cooked stews, rendered in this superlative Barreado, a kind of practical adaptation of the Brazilian dish into the reality of our American kitchens. For Monica, cooking Brazilian cuisine in the US requires some adaptability. “Long ago, I decided to get Le Creuset pots that are known here as Dutch oven pans. They are made of cast iron, which allows for perfect braising, slow cooking, risottos and the like. And the best: easy clean-up”, says Monica.
In June, Monica and her family will go back to living in Brazil. Now 45, Monica enjoyed the american lifestyle to the fullest, entertaining, going to shows, theaters and most importantly, making friends along the way. Monica has quickly become a source of information for our Brazilian group of friends. A lawyer as well, she is not afraid of the transition and is ready to embrace the next chapter of her life in Brazil.
Just as she deploys master creativity to fashion her kitchen recipes, she applies the same courage to cook Barreado, as she does to move back to Brazil. If bone is key to flavor, adaptation is key to life.
My kind of girl. We’ll miss you Monica!
Adapted by Leticia Moreinos Schwartz for this blog
6 bone in beef shank
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt ad freshly ground pepper
4 oz bacon, diced (about 4 to 5 strips)
3 garlic cloves, finely minced
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
3 fresh bay leaves
Freshly ground numeg
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups manioc flour
1 orange cut in segments
¼ cup freshly chopped parsley
1. Heat the oven to 325˚F and place a rack on the lower third set.
2. Separate the meat from the bones. Clean the excess fat from the meat, but don’t worry too much about the thin membranes, they will melt in the cooking. Heat a large stockpot and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium high heat. Add the bones and cook them, stirring occasionally for 10 minutes. Pour 6 cups of cold water, bring to boil, then adjust the heat to medium and simmer until the liquid has thickened and flavored, about 40 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, cut the meat into 1–inch cubes and season with salt and pepper.
4. In a large Dutch oven pan add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon until it just starts to crisp, about 4 minutes. Lower the heat, add the garlic and cook until it just starts to golden, about 1 minute. Add the onion, bay leaves, nutmeg and cumin, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the mixture gets soft and tender, about 6 minutes. Add the meat and cook, stirring occasionally. During this step, the meat will release its juices moistening the mixture and turning into a delicious kind of refogado (sofrito). Add the tomato paste and season lightly with salt and pepper.
5. Strain the broth; you should have about 5 cups. Pour over the meat, and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, and transfer to the oven. Braise until the meat is super tender, about 2½ hours, checking often to make sure simmering is at a gentle boil and liquid level is right. You can always add another ½ cup water if necessary. (In a traditional barreado, the manioc paste helps prevent some evaporation. Here, you need to check more often.)
6. Remove from the oven and let it rest at room temperature, covered for 30 minutes. Using a large spoon, smash the meat to shred everything into thin threads. At this point, the dish looks more like a soup than a stew.
7. To serve, place about 3 tablespoons of manioc flour on the bottom of a plate in a circular motion. First, add some of the liquid from the barreado to form a paste, then add the meat. Garnish with banana, oranges, and chopped parsley.
Keeping up with this globalized world can be a full time occupation in today’s fiercely competitive corporate ecosphere. You hear a million different languages just by walking down the streets of a mega metropolis like New York City. With a strong similarity in structure to Spanish and often confused with Russian, Portuguese is not such an easy language to learn. But with Brazil on the podium with the world economy leaders, and the two big events ahead, Portuguese is turning out a common language these days. That doesn’t mean it is only spoken by native Brazilians. Crisithiane Vieira Rozenblit is making sure that Portuguese is an easy access language to any one who wants to learn it, especially to Americans who do business with Brazil.
The school Brazil Ahead started six years ago and is already establishing itself as the go-to place for someone looking for Portuguese classes in New York City. The idea came at ease to a person who already had a back round of teaching English in Brazil, like Cristhiane had.
The school is for the most time an education center geared to all things Brazil, and joins the constantly improving schools of languages such as Berlitz and Rosetta Stone, hovering just below their popularity since the business is so young. But the company is growing exponentially with events like the World Cup and the Olympics right around the corner. Cristhiane deserves that because she’s pulled off her most meaningful trick yet: a place to celebrate the joy and spirit of Brazilian culture.
She came to the US looking to change careers and rethink her life. Her initial intent was to study marketing at FIT, but while she was busy planning things, faith brought her back to her roots when she started teaching Portuguese in New York as a way to pay her bills. Word of mouth proves itself with Brazil Ahead, when suddenly the number of private students was so big, that was worthy the start of a new business. The school offers classes to American people who are looking to learn Portuguese, and to kids of all ages who live in the US and have English as their first language. The New York branch is located on Lexigton Ave (between 42nd and 41st Streets) employing 14 people and has over 300 students at this point.
Last year, Brazil Ahead opened a branch in Westchester, NY and is already planning new branches for Connecticut and other areas outside New York City. From a personal perspective as a Brazilian married to an American, I find myself in a confounded state of confusion when I see myself speaking in Portuguese to my kids only to have them answer me back in English. And while they understand it perfectly, and speak Portuguese with their Brazilian grandparents (my parents, who live in Brazil), they don’t know how to read or write in Portuguese. Adding to this state of disorder, is my own mix of languages on the very same phrase, as if I could switch from one language to the other in a matter of seconds. Well, my brain sometimes delays my thought process, and the result is often two languages on the very same phrase. Example: “Não é fair”. or “Hoje tenho um apontamento.” Or “Estou parqueando o carro.” The surprising fact, is that I often get the sense that I was understood. Cristhiane, who lives in New Jersey and commutes to Manhattan, falls into a state of languages one degree even more complex: three languages in the mix. She recently married an Israeli man and the couple has a son, Uri, who is tri-lingual: Portuguese from the mother, Hebrew from the father, and English at school. Watch Uri’s video here.
It is no coincidence that Brazilians like myself are looking to connect our kids with stronger roots of our native culture and have turned our attention to places like Brazil Ahead. By going back to our own culture, we are surely leading the way to a better future for our kids, and for our country too.
If you’d like to bring Brazil Ahead to your area, feel free to get in touch with Cristhiane.
380 Lexigton Ave, 17th Floor (Between 42nd and 41st Street)
New York, NY 10168
Tel (646) 567-7133
With an Emmy award to his credit for his coverage of Hurricane Irene (August 2011) and the coverage of superstorm Sandy on October 2012, Raphael Miranda could have easily layed in bed to take a rest after working days into nights to keep the public updated and informed of the weather to come.
That’s typical in the life of this half Brazilian reporter and weatherman. I met Raphael when I was at NBC 4 New York’s studio cooking for a segment with Merck, as we promote our campaign Cuida Tu Diabetes Cuida Tu Corazon.
His path to this ascending career has been an unusual and interesting one. Raphael Miranda was born in New York to an American mother and a Brazilian father, who immigrated to the US in the 60’s. All of his father’s family still lives in Brazil and Raphael grew up flying back and forth between the two countries.
His words are ever measurable, his diction is perfect, his accent is crystal clear of any other language influence—and his Portuguese, impeccable.
Recounting all this, Raphael, 36, chats in his articulation of words, which is well balanced and very high in Brazilian spirit, even when the weather he delivers is far from Brazilian tropical weather; the rain, the snow, and the chill. On January 7th of this year, when half of the country was frozen into record low temperatures, Raphael was a source of heat and hope announcing that in only two days, temperatures would go back to normal.
Watch him on TV; through his toned voice and earnest smile, he’ll bring peace to your day even when reporting nasty weather. Follow him on Facebook and Twitter and you’ll feel the warmth of his personality through constant updates of the weather forecast.
As we sat for lunch at the new NBC’s Cafeteria at Rockefeller Center, he worked his way through sushi and talked about his career, how none of this was actually planned, and how it’s been close to five years that he ‘s been at NBC.
He didn’t know what path to take right after college. When he graduated from NYU with a degree in Spanish literature, he spoke broken Portuguese and decided it was a good time to live in Brazil. At first, he went to Minas Gerais, where his father’s family is based, but then, relocated to the sunny state of Recife where a cousin was living.
In Recife, Raphael taught English to children in school, but after two years, he started to miss the crazy lifestyle of New York City, while also realizing that he might have other ambitions.
Turns out that life takes Raphael in directions that even he gets surprised. Planning, he tells me, has never been much of his personality.
Career. Flow. Brazil. With those words, suddenly he started telling me about a boyfriend he left in Brazil, how he went back a few times to try to bring him here, and then excitedly about his husband Douglas, and how this is an aspect of life that he is extremely proud of: to be openly gay in broadcast journalism, and active in the LGBT community.
Upon his return, Raphael got a job in retail as a manager of a fancy store at Madison Ave—a job he didn’t enjoy very much. Eventually he got sick with meningitis, which set him back for a while, forcing him to do some thinking.
“One day, I reached out to Craig Allen, a weather man who I really admired, and to my surprise, he replied”, said Raphael. He asked the veteran for career advices and in a few short years, Raphael received degrees from Brooklyn college and Mississippi State University in broadcast journalism and meteorology. He prepared a reel, sent to a few stations, and got an offer at the Westchester News Channel, in New York. From there, he went to NBC.
To write about him is to gradually succumb to our own hopes and dreams, in a very inspiring way. There just doesn’t seem to be any lack of energy around this man. Raphael is elegant in his own work, incredibly talented, and entirely committed to his profession.
Schedule wise, broadcasting the weather is a job that demands nothing less than total submission to the craft. “I am out of rhythm with the rest of the world. That is the hardest part of my job,”, he said. Most days, he has to go to bed around 7 pm and wake up at crazy hours. “But not every job is perfect, and I like the camaraderie between my colleagues. We are all on the same boat. “
During our conversation, I asked Raphael about his eating habits and his link to Brazilian cuisine. Raphael has been a “on and off” vegetarian. Now he is on the “on” phase, but with a little more flexibility, eating fish and chicken.
To end this article in “food” style, I asked Raphael to share with us one of his favorite recipes.
Below is Tilapia with a Lemon Butter Sauce, which I adapted for this blog.
Tilapia with a Lemon Butter Sauce
½ cup all purpose flour, plus 2 teaspoons
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 lb tilapia filets (about 2 whole filets)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup white wine
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
2 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley
1. Pre-heat the oven to 200˚F.
2. Place the flour in a large plate, season with salt and pepper and whisk well.
3. Season the fish lightly with salt and pepper and dredge on the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess.
4. In a large saute pan, melt 2 tablespoon butter over medium heat and cook the fish on both sides until opaque, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the fish to a plate and keep warm at the stove.
5. Add the wine and bring to a boil over high heat, reducing almost entirely. Add the remaining 4 tablesppons of butter to the pan and lower the heat to a minimum not to break the butter.
6. Add the 2 teaspoons flour and whisk well. Pour the lemon juice and cook the sauce until thickened. Stir in parsley. Return the fish to the pan and baste the fish in the sauce on low heat. Carefuly transfer fish to warm plates and spoon sauce on top.
I have two full knifed draws in my kitchen and usually, I don’t allow my kids near them, even though they prepare food, in some capacity, every single day. That doesn’t necessarily mean they cook. It means packing a sandwich for lunch, cutting strawberries for snack, and so on. Knives and fire are off limits. But when it comes to oven, kids just can’t resist, especially when it has a bright light inside that allows you (or your kid) to watch the baking process.
Take my daughter Bianca, for example.
Say the word brownie, cookie, or cake, and she will come to the kitchen jumping like a sheep (actually she will come cartwheeling), and exploding with baking mojo.
We often bake together, and I absolutely love it. It takes me to haven! And then, I often I catch my self wishing that Bianca will be the kind of person who will make her own chicken stock (like me) and fry her potatoes in duck fat (like me). The reasons for my delusions, no doubt, are as complicated as any mother-daughter relationship.
On a recent trip to Brazil, I came home one day to the wonderful aromas of deep chocolate cake, crumbly yet moist on the inside, with a smooth ganache covering the entire cake.
I asked Rita, the lady that helps us around the house, how she prepared that delicious cake, and she told me Bianca helped her.
I was like, “Yeah, right, Rita. Come on, how did you make it?”
Rita: “ I am not kidding Leticia, Bianca really helped me. She knew what ingredients to include, and we pretty much eyed balled it together.”
Me: “Did you write the recipe??”
Meanwhile, Thomas (my son), who witnessed their adventure in the kitchen, heard our conversation without listening to a word we were saying. He was too busy eating the cake.
Their cake. Rita and Bianca’s Chocolate Cake.
I could look at the cake and know it was going to be delicious. But when I tasted it, I couldn’t believe its perfection.
I asked Rita and Bianca to repeat the recipe—and the magic— so that I could write the recipe. Then I tried to replicate the cake in my American kitchen for this blog.
Both Rita and Bianca approved. I hope you will too!
Bolo Chocolate Rita Bianca
Nescau is a sweetened chocolate milk mixture typical from Brazil. The brand belongs to Nestle— the came comes from the mixing the words Nestle and Cocoa (in Portuguese the word cocoa is cacao, therefore Nescau). The product was launched in Brazil in the early 1930’s and by 1960 it was a very established product. In the early 1970’s Nestle marketed the product even more and today it is a staple Brazilian ingredient. It is very easy to find Nescau in any Brazilian specialty store, including many sources online, but one can use ovaltine or Nesckuick as substitute.
For the Cake:
1 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon (200g) all-purpose flour
¾ cup (105 g) nescau ( see headnote)
1 teaspoon (4g) baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 stick (8tablespoons, 115g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup (100g) sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup (250ml) whole milk
For the Glaze:
¾ cup (200g) heavy cream
6 oz (170g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
Equipment: one tube mold (with capacity for 5 cups), buttered and floured
1. Make the Cake: Pre-heat the oven to 350˚F.
2. Whisk together the flour, nescau, baking powder, and salt.
3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar together on medium speed until creamy and smooth, about 4 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the egg, and beat for one minute more, then beat in the vanilla. At this point the batter will look a little crudely—that’s normal. Reduce the speed to low, then add half of the milk, then half of the flour mixture; repeat with the remaining milk and flour until homogeneous.
4. Pour the batter into the prepared mold and bake in the oven until the cake starts to pull from the sides and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Transfer the pan to a rack and allow the cake to rest for 5 minutes, then invert onto the rack and let it cool to room temperature.
5. Make the Glaze: Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and set aside. In a medium saucepan, bring the cream to a boil, then pour over the chocolate; let it stand for a minute to melt the chocolate; whisk until smooth. Let it cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. When is pourable but cool, pour the glaze on top of the cake.
The other day I was thinking about how grateful I am for having a wonderful therapist. Because of therapy—and this goes way back to my teenage years— I was able to discover what I really wanted to do for the rest of my life: to cook.
But wait. It’s not so simple. In an imaginary conversation with my therapist, disguised as Dr. Sigmund Freud himself, I saw myself lying on his couch, looking at my broken nail, conflicted between my many existential questions, and then I realized that I am not much different from most women I know. I looked at him, and he asked me: “Why does it have to be so complicated, Leticia? What is it that you—women—really want?”
Where is my nail polisher? I looked in my purse. We don’t want broken nails, that’s for sure. We also want at least one, nice, fancy-looking purse. Every woman must have one.
We want to feel attractive in our own bodies. We want to be credited for our work—and make money from it. We want to be loved. We want to be in love. And we want to have fun.
This could be the sum of it, Dr. Freud, but there is a whole lot more that women want. We want to bear children, or at least, many women do. Then, we want to have more time for ourselves. When we have free time, we want a hectic life. When we have a hectic life, we want free time. We are always looking for the perfect balance. We believe there is such a thing. Got that?
We don’t want to die our hair constantly, although we need to. We like to talk, but we also like silence. We want to listen too; some women are better than others at this. We want to listen to our children, but especially to men, and we don’t give up trying to understand them. When they say“ I love you”, we hear “I want to marry you”. We are truly from different planets Dr. Freud! We want them to be crazy for us, and we want to right to be crazy ourselves.
We want to check our e-mails and have our inbox full. Only juicy e-mails please, but we’ll take a sale coupon at Pottery Barn as well. We want to be speechless and surprised. We want to learn how to be more selfish. At least once in life, we want to think of no one else but us. Are you still with me?
We want to be an inspiration for others. We want to put dinner on the table and we want our kids to eat everything. We want them to sleep the whole night, preferably in their own beds.
We want to turn off the TV. We want to have sex. We want to look good in photographs. We want to be noticed in a restaurant the moment we enter the front door.
We want to go to bed earlier. We want to do something positive for society. We want to help those in need of help. We want to be useful. But we want to be helped ourselves, especially with the groceries. Oh, and with anything regarding cars.
We want to laugh. We don’t want to be taken so seriously. We want to fight for our goals without being obnoxious. We want peace. We want to read more, travel more, know more. We want to kiss, and be kissed. We want to feel alive. We want to grow young. And lastly, we want to eat—AND NOT GET FAT!
That’s all Dr. Freud. As you can see, we’re really not that complicated!
“Ok Leticia, your time is up.” said Dr. Freud. “See you next time.”
Now that I have shared with you my imaginary session with my very own Dr. Freud, I will share with you my fantasy recipe —albeit a real one— that celebrates all those crazy moments I have when I want to indulge completely, entirely, and dream that I am not gaining an ounce of fat from it.
I would love to hear what is YOUR fantasy recipe? The one you dream about eating forever and NOT getting fat?
This recipe for Dulce de Leche Brownies comes from David Lebovitz, a pastry chef, blogger, and cookbook author whose work I really admire, and whose recipes, often brings me to Dr. Freud’s imaginary couch.
Dulce de Leche Brownies Adapted from David Lebovitz
Makes 12 servings
8 tablespoons (120g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, plus more for the pan
6 ounces (170g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
¼ cup (30g) unsweetened cocoa powder
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup (120g) sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup (140g) flour
1 cup (250ml) dulce de leche
1. Pre-heat the oven to 350˚F.
2. Grease an 8-inch square pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.
3. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the chocolate and stir constantly over low heat until melted. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cocoa powder until smooth.
4. Add the eggs, one at a time, then stir in the sugar, vanilla, and flour.
5. Scrape half of the batter into the prepared pan. Drop one-third of the dulce de leche in prune size dollops, evenly spaced, over the brownie batter, then drag a knife through to swirl it slightly. Spread the remaining brownie batter over the top, then drop more dulce de leche by the spoonful. Use a knife to swirl the dulce de leche ever so slightly—if you over do it, the whole thing will bake into a bubbly mess. Just drag a knife once or twice through the batter and leave it at that.
6. Bake until the center feels just slightly firm, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool completely. These brownies actually become better the second day, and will keep well for up to 3 days.
Thank you Alessandra Kalko for the illustrations supporting this post.
On a recent evening in Rio de Janeiro, I went out for dinner at Rua Dias Ferreira in Leblon. At first glance, the word Pipo would seem no more than a cute word to pronounce in Portuguese. But read through this restaurant’s menu, on which one fanciful tapa dish leads to another, and then another after that, and you realize that its name is actually the nickname of a trendsetter carioca chef, Felipe Bronze.
Having trained at the CIA cooking school in Hyde Park (NY), Felipe Bronze (Pipo for those who know him from childhood), had stunts at many legendary New York kitchens like Nobu and Le Bernardim. When he returned to Rio in 2001, he went to work for Sushi Leblon, one of the most profitable restaurants in Rio, also located at Rua Dias Ferreira. He then continued his career in the kitchens of Zuka, Z Comtemporaneo, and Hoteis Marina.
After a series of kitchen jobs, Felipe partnered with restauranteur Eurico Cunha, and together they opened Oro in October 2010, a restaurant in Jardim Botânico that took Rio by storm. Other chefs in Brazil have embarked on a similar path, but Oro stands out. It reaches a level of art in cooking, an idealization of ingredient interpretation.
For a foodie like me, it’s as if you take the dream of eating at El Bulli (already closed) and place it Rio. Even better actually, because Bronze applies that level cooking to Brazilian cuisine rather than Spanish, and what he does in the process is a hurricane of creativity.
As you sit, even the napkin comes in a thrilling form of candy that opens up to a hot towel. Salad Caprese with Burrata, comes with a tomato dome. Capelini a Carbonara is an indulgent affair, with a creamy sauce, bacon bits and a perfectly cook egg on top.
Feijoada comes deconstructed; to each and every item of the traditional dish, special treatment and attention is given to it. On the plate, you taste Brazil on a luxe scale. Chocolate ice cream with a crunchy Licuri (a fruit from the Amazon) comes with foams and smokes, not to mention table side preparation.
Oro is a lifetime experience. The level of cooking and detail is overwhelming, proving that Bronze’s talent in the kitchen is sometimes breathtaking. But is it worth it? That is the question that cariocas are asking themselves, especially now, ever since the recession seemed to have knocked on Brazil’s door.
Indeed, I had one of the most unforgettable meals of my life, but can I afford to go back? A meal for two at Oro can easily cost $600 Reais (Brazilian currency, around US$250), and that’s just starting point.
Let’s not forget the context in which Oro opened. The year was 2010. While the rest of the world was crumbling into deep recession, Brazil was growing at a rate of 7,5%, the highest in 24 years. Oh, glory days!
Oro reflects that moment of Brazil, a restaurant that speaks to a time of splendor, and its success was bound to encourage more of it. Which bring us back to Pipo.
This small restaurant, with its tables open to the street was the last place I’d expect to feel like a “carioca da gema” (that’s an expression for hard core cariocas) after dinning at Oro. But Felipe Bronze managed to deliver an experience that is once transcendent and deeply rooted in Brazilian street foods, to the wallet of cariocas.
Pipo opened doors in July of 2013, bringing him back to Rua Dias Ferreira, and offering culinary delights in a looser way, more in sync with the culture and current economy of Rio de Janeiro.
The heavenly Bolinho de Pirarucu (Pirarucu Fritters) came from the deep rivers of the Amazon, a riff on Bolinho de Bacalhau (Cod Fritters), though this fish is quite a contender for the cod salting process, and in the north of the country, you may find similar versions.
Pastel de Queijo (Fried Cheese Empanadas) has an onion twist, fried and crunchy, simple, and perfectly executed.
Caldinho de Feijão (Black Bean Broth) with a collard green foam is delightful.
Crème de Abacate ( Avocado Cream) comes with a crunch of macademia, brittly and delicious.
Aipirm Frito (Yucca Fries) comes with a foam of Coalho cheese, rich and creamy.
All these flavors, all this food for thought are the first few bites of an array of petiscos. Pipo leaves us with an appreciation for excellent cheap eats. The flavors are so robust and the enviroment as carioca as any botequim. I am not sure if I can afford another meal at Oro. But at Pipo, I can—and I get the same fandango! Can’t wait to go back!
Rua Dias Ferreira, 64 Lojas B e C
Leblon, Rio de Janeiro
Tel (55 21) 2239-9322
Rua Frei Leandro, 20
Jardim Botanico, Rio de Janeiro
Tel: (55 21) 7864-9622
Yes! It’s here! My second cookbook arrived and I am over the moon! I started working on this book soon after The Brazilian Kitchen came out and within a few intervews for my blog, I saw another book being born.
This is my second book with publisher Kyle Books, and once again my editor Anja Schmidt put together an amazing creative team, including food stylist Paul Grimes and photographer Kate Sears. Some of my happiest days were spent testing, writing, and shooting this book.
Each chapter takes you to a different neighborhood in Rio. You can visit a botequim (tapas restaurant) very close my home in Leblon called Jobi, and prepare their fantastic Risole De Camarão com Catupiry (Shrimp and Catupiry Turnover);
you can go to Búzios and try a recipe inspired by its fish market like Farfale with Salmon and Caipirinha Sauce;
and you can have a taste of the Botanical Garden with the classic Filet Oswaldo Aranha.
And that’s just a hint! There are many more delicious recipes and gorgeous photos!
I hope you buy the book and please stay in touch with me! Let me know your favorite recipes, comments, and questions!
Below you will find a recipe for Molten Brigadeiro Cake from My Rio de Janeiro: A Cookbook. Enjoy!
Bolinho Quente de Brigadeiro
Molten Brigadeiro Cake
1 (14 oz) can sweetened condensed milk
1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
2 oz (60g) 70% dark chocolate, chopped
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for the molds
2 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon (12g) sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ cup (40g) all-purpose flour, sifted, plus more for the molds
Special Equipment: 6 individual foil cups, buttered and floured
1. Preheat the oven to 350˚F.
2. In a heavy saucepan, place the condensed milk, cocoa powder and chocolate, and bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking constantly. When the mixture begins to bubble and the chocolate melts, reduce the heat to low and continue whisking for another 3 to 5 minutes until the mixture has thickened like fudge. You should be able to tilt the pan and the whole batter will slide, leaving the sticky fudge on the bottom of the pan. Slide the batter into a large bowl without scraping it, as you don’t want to incorporate any of the thick residue left on the bottom of the pan.
3. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Pour the butter into the chocolate mixture and whisk vigorously until smooth. At first the mixture will totally curdle and break. You will think this recipe cannot possibly work, but keep whisking constantly until the mixture comes together again.
4. In a separate bowl, beat together the eggs, yolks, salt, sugar and vanilla. Add this into the chocolate mixture and whisk until incorporated.
5. Add the flour and mix until just blended, using a spatula.
6. Pour the batter into foil cups filling them almost to the top (leave about ¼ inch). You can prepare the recipe up to this point and refrigerate for up to 5 days,
7. Bake for 7 to 9 minutes, or until the edges are firm but the center is still soft. Invert onto a dessert plate. Serve with ice cream (pistachio, ginger, coconut or vanilla are all flavors that work well with this dessert).
© My Rio de Janeiro: A Cookbook , Leticia Moreinos Schwartz
Get ready for a Brazilian chocolate indulgence and prepare to find some of the most exquisite bonbons in Rio de Janeiro. That’s right, even in this hot tropical city, mostly known for beaches, soccer and samba, chocolate too as become a cultural phenomenon, and a new class of chocolatiers is finding innovative ways to revive the country’s cocoa’s production.
This past summer, I had the opportunity to interview one of my favorites chocolatiers of Rio for this blog: Solange and Adriana Wiltjen from Cacau Noir.
My belief in Cacau Noir goes back to an enlightning encounter, circa 1994 with this mother-daughter team, who, at that time, were already directioning the faith of chocolate in the mega metropolis with a tiny store located at Hotel Cezar Park.
I got a taste of Cacau Noir’s production on a beautiful day in Rio. To streamline my visit, we first went to the kitchen in Vargem Grande (pass Barra da Tijuca) where they maintain a staff of fifteen, then to a store.
I spent a morning circling between German and French equipments like tempering machines and special refrigerators, watching Solange and her staff prepare a bonanza of delicacies.
I sampled pepper ganache bonbons, macarrons and pão de mel. I tried a coffee dark truffle, pistachio praline and bolo de laranja. All incredibly tasty and comparable to the bonbons found at Madison Avenue in New York, I can attest.
The more I strolled thrugh an impecably clean kitchen, the clearer it was that the level of sophistication is constantly evolving at Cacau Noir. Jacques Torres would love this place!
The packaging and presentation is another detail to pay attention to. Graphic design may not be at the heart of a chocolate program, but the patterns of Rio’s boardwalk and its landscapes speaks volume about Brazilian identity and the direction the company is taking.
Solange’s creations are designed to evoke a sense of celebration with flavors that range from coconut and mint, to dulce de leche and cachaÇa. These chocolates bring the bliss and spirit of carioca culture into a bite size of joy.
Where experience becomes essential is in making the ganache, where chocolate, cream and butter bond and become greater than the sum of its parts. For that , Solange studied at Barry Callebaut Chocolate Technology in Chicago.
Solange Wiltgen, 63, founded Cacau Noir with her daughter Adriana, after parting ways from her twin sister Elvira, which they previously ran Chez Bombom. They attracted a following among foodies, parties, events, and coporate clients, and Cacau Noir has since grown into a company with four boutiques in Rio (located at Rio Design Leblon, Rio Design Barra, Quartier Ipanema, and Village Mall).
The store front is as slick and modern as any art gallery showroom, while the assortment of products highlights a variety of chocolate indulgences.
Solange and Adriana both feature an extremely calm style that matches the sophisticated and serene vibe behing their brand. Rarely have I witnessed such tranquility in what is typically known as a caotic kitchen enviroment. It positively affects they way they run their business and handle such a temperamental item like chocolate.
Summer months in Rio can distant carioca’s crave for chocolate, even though the product remains in a temperature controled enviroment at all times. To maneuver Rio’s hot temperatures, Cacau Noir has diversified its products to other confections like brownies, cakes, ice cream, and spoon brigadeiros.
I take one bite at this intense variation of brigadeiro and forsee the landscape of Rio printed all over, with faith and unlimited confidence in the greatness of both destinies: Cacau Noir and Rio de Janeiro.
If you would like to read more of my articles about the upcoming rise of Brazilian chocolate, click here.
Rio Design Leblon, 1 piso, Leblon Tel: (021) 2529-6977
Rio Design Barra, 2˚ Piso, Barra Tel: (021) 2432-8281
Quartier Ipanema, Terreo, Ipanema Tel: (021) 2247-9843
Village Mall, 2˚ Piso, Barra